Why Your Driveway Apron Sinks Near the Garage (And How to Fix It)

If there’s one spot on a driveway that settles more than others, it’s right in front of the garage. You’ve probably felt that jarring “bump” every time you pull in or seen water pooling where it shouldn’t.

We at Colorado Springs Leveling have seen this specific issue on thousands of properties requiring driveway leveling, and it almost always traces back to the same few causes.

This gap isn’t just concrete getting old; it is usually a sign that the soil underneath is finally revealing the history of your home’s construction.

We are going to explain exactly why this specific section fails and walk you through the most effective way to permanently fix it.

Why This Spot Settles First

The driveway apron—the section directly in front of your garage—takes more abuse than any other part of your driveway. It sits on the most unstable ground on your entire property.

Reason 1: The “Backfill” Effect

When your home was originally built, the excavators had to dig a hole significantly larger than the foundation itself to give workers room to work. This creates a “moat” around your house, about 2 to 4 feet wide.

Once the foundation was finished, they filled that space back in with loose soil, known as backfill.

The problem:

Original soil was dense and undisturbed for centuries.
Backfill soil is loose and rarely compacted to the necessary 95% density.
It naturally settles over the first 5-10 years of the home’s life.

Your driveway apron sits directly on top of this settling “moat,” which is why it sinks while the rest of the driveway stays level.

Reason 2: Concentrated Dynamic Loads

Every car that enters or exits your garage crosses this exact spot, often while turning or braking. That repeated weight accelerates compaction in a way that static parking does not.

The math:

Average vehicle weight: 4,000 lbs.
Traffic frequency: Minimum 4 crossings per day for a two-car family.
Cumulative load: Over 5.8 million pounds of pressure per year on this single strip of concrete.

No other part of your driveway endures this specific type of concentrated, repetitive stress.

Reason 3: Water Flow Patterns

Water is the enemy of soil stability, and your house naturally directs it toward the apron.

Driveways are often sloped to drain toward the street, but settling reverses this pitch.
Rooflines and gutters can discharge water near the garage corners.
The house itself acts as a wall, trapping wind-blown rain against the door.

This water saturates the already loose backfill, causing it to erode or compress further.

Reason 4: The Freeze-Thaw Cycle

In many US regions, the seasonal cycle of freezing and thawing wreaks havoc on this vulnerable joint.

How it happens:

Water enters the small gap between the driveway and garage floor.
Temperatures drop, and the water freezes, expanding by about 9%.
This expansion pushes the slab up and the soil away.
When the ice melts, it leaves a void, and the slab settles further down into it.

The Problems It Causes

Settling at the garage apron creates real issues that go beyond curb appeal.

Foundation & Water Damage

When the apron sinks, it funnels water toward your home’s foundation instead of away from it.

Rain enters the garage, damaging items stored on the floor.
Hydrostatic pressure builds up against the foundation wall.
Moisture wicks into the garage slab, causing mold or mildew.

Garage Door Seal Failure

Your garage door is designed to close against a level surface. Even a minor drop in the apron creates a breach.

Energy Loss: Cold drafts enter freely, driving up heating bills.
Pest Entry: A gap of just 1/4 inch is enough for mice and insects to enter.
Security Risks: Visible gaps can be a leverage point or simply advertise easy access.

Trip Hazards

The lip created between the garage floor and the sinking driveway is a primary cause of falls.

Stepping out of the car while carrying groceries.
Walking around vehicles in the dark.
Children and elderly family members are particularly at risk.

Most liability guidelines consider a vertical difference of 1/4 inch or more to be a trip hazard.

Vehicle Damage

Severe settling eventually impacts your vehicles.

Low-clearance cars may scrape their front bumpers.
Suspension components face unnecessary stress every day.
Tires can suffer from uneven impact when hitting the sharp lip.

How Bad Is Yours?

You can assess the severity of your settlement with a simple tape measure or even a visual check.

Gap Size	Risk Level	Recommended Action
Under 1/4”	Low	Monitor and seal with caulk to prevent worsening.
1/4” - 1/2”	Moderate	Trip hazard exists. Schedule an assessment soon.
1/2” - 1”	High	Water actively damaging foundation. Repair needed.
Over 1”	Critical	Severe vehicle/structural risk. Address immediately.

Also check for:

Hollow sounds when you tap the concrete (indicating voids).
Sand or soil washing out from the sides of the driveway.
Cracks forming parallel to the garage door.

The Leveling Solution

Concrete leveling (often called mudjacking) is the ideal solution for this specific problem. It is faster, cheaper, and cleaner than replacing the concrete.

It Addresses the Root Cause

We don’t just lift the slab; we stabilize the soil underneath it using a limestone slurry.

Drill: Small holes (about the size of a quarter) are drilled through the apron.
Pump: A natural limestone slurry is pumped into the voids under hydraulic pressure.
Fill: This material fills the empty spaces and compresses the loose backfill.
Lift: As the voids fill, the pressure gently lifts the slab back to its original level.
Support: The slurry hardens into a dense, stable base that supports the weight of your vehicles.

It Restores Proper Drainage

Correcting the pitch is critical for long-term protection.

Water flows away from the garage and foundation.
The original drainage slope (typically 1/4 inch per foot) is restored.
Pooling water at the garage door is eliminated.

Cost and Time Comparison (2025/2026 Data)

Leveling is significantly more efficient than tearing out and pouring new concrete.

Factor	Concrete Leveling	Full Replacement
Time to Complete	1-2 hours	2-3 days
Cure Time	Ready in 24 hours	7+ days
Typical Cost	$3 - $9 per sq. ft.	$8 - $18+ per sq. ft.
Mess & Noise	Minimal	Heavy machinery required
Landscape Impact	None	Potential grass/garden damage

Long-Lasting Results

The limestone slurry we use is a natural, stable material.

It does not shrink or wash away easily.
It provides high compressive strength for heavy vehicle loads.
Our 2-year warranty ensures the repair holds up through the seasons.

Lifting the slab is the main fix, but a few finishing touches ensure the problem doesn’t return.

1. Caulking the Transition Joint

The joint between your driveway and garage floor must be sealed to stop water from re-entering.

We use high-quality polyurethane sealant that remains flexible.
It prevents the freeze-thaw cycle from pushing the slabs apart again.
It keeps debris and pests out of the joint.

Most homeowners choose to have this done immediately after leveling.

Learn about our caulking service →

2. Drainage Assessment

If water consistently flows toward your garage due to landscape issues, you may need more than just leveling.

Downspout extensions can move roof water further away.
Regrading the soil near the foundation helps natural flow.
Channel drains can catch surface water before it hits the concrete.

We can help identify if these external factors are contributing to your settling.

3. Sealing (Optional)

If the surface of your apron is showing signs of wear or flaking (spalling), a sealer can help.

Penetrating sealers (like silane/siloxane) protect the concrete pores.
They prevent salt and chemical damage during winter.
They extend the lifespan of the slab itself.

Learn about our sealing service →

What About the Garage Floor?

Sometimes the settling isn’t limited to the driveway; the garage floor itself may be sinking.

Signs of garage floor trouble:

A gap appearing between the floor and the wall.
The floor sloping toward the back of the garage.
Cracks running across the middle of the slab.

We apply the same leveling process to garage interiors to restore a safe, level surface.

Learn about garage floor leveling →

Prevention for the Future

After we restore your apron, a little maintenance goes a long way.

Manage Water Flow

Clean gutters regularly to prevent overflow near the driveway.
Ensure downspouts discharge at least 4-6 feet away from the concrete.
Check that the soil grade slopes away from the slab edges.

Monitor the Joint

Inspect the caulk joint every fall before the freeze sets in.
Replace the sealant if it cracks or pulls away from the concrete.
Watch for new gaps appearing after heavy rain seasons.

Act Early

Call for an assessment as soon as you notice movement.
Small voids are cheaper and easier to fill than large ones.
Addressing it early prevents expensive foundation repairs later.

Real Results

Here is a typical example of what a garage apron project looks like for our customers.

The Issue: A 2-inch drop causing a severe trip hazard and water pooling.
The Fix: Drilled 6 small access holes and pumped limestone slurry to fill deep voids.
The Time: The crew arrived at 8:00 AM and finished by 9:30 AM.
The Outcome: The gap was completely closed, and the customer parked in the garage that night.
The Savings: The project cost under $1,000, saving the homeowner over $1,500 compared to replacement quotes.

Get Your Apron Assessed

If you are tired of the bump or worried about water damage, let us take a look.

We will:

Measure the exact amount of settlement.
Probe for voids to understand the extent of the problem.
Check your drainage patterns.
Give you a clear, honest quote for the repair.
Schedule the work at a time that fits your day.

The assessment is free, and it is the first step toward a safe, level driveway.

Request your free assessment →